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Off the beaten track in the Khumbu of Nepal: Gokyo to Thame over Renjo La

It was one of those magical, sparkling mornings when the light painted every rock, lichen, yak and peak in surreally vivid relief.  A flock of birds burst upward from an adjoining field like a scatter of buckshot against the blue-violet of the morning sky. We had emerged shivering from our rooms that mid-October morning in our tiny lodge in Lungden, to consume a welcome cup of hot lemon tea and a ... Read More »

Off the beaten track in the Khumbu of Nepal: Lobuche to Gokyo via Cho La

In a place where superlatives ring hollow for overuse, Gokyo finds a way to make an impression. Out the back door of our well-kept lodge in the lakeside town of Gokyo in the northern Khumbu of Nepal, groups of brightly dressed porters stood talking around their cooking fires, smoke curling upward with its now familiar sweet-bitter yak dung fragrance.     The tiny internet room out back was packed ... Read More »

A Date with the Devil: Jakita Ridge-Devil’s Dome Loop, North Cascades, Washington State

“The world is all the richer for having a devil in it, as long as we keep our foot on his neck. ”  WILLIAM JAMES We climbed up and up, the vistas unfolding, the massive glaciered crag of Jack Mountain – the “King of the Skagit” – revealing itself close enough to touch, the Picket Range and Mount Baker gathering up the thunder clouds on their crests to the far west.   This is what calls... Read More »

A Gift of Glory – Sunrise over Cerro Torre, Patagonia

The firefly glow of our headlamps mapped out the winding trail through trees and boulders to the moraine, the ghostly spire of Cerro Torre just peeking over the top.   Cresting the ridge, across our field of view was luminescent ice, vertical rock and water: Laguna Torre and behind it a row of high sheer pinnacles rising above a sweep of glaciers, the magnificent Cerro Torre (10,262’) rising above... Read More »


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