Happy Tramper

Off the beaten track in the Khumbu of Nepal: Gokyo to Thame over Renjo La

Off the beaten track in the Khumbu of Nepal:  Gokyo to Thame over Renjo La
It was one of those magical, sparkling mornings when the light painted every rock, lichen, yak and peak in surreally vivid relief.  A flock of birds burst upward from an adjoining field like a scatter of buckshot against the blue-violet of the morning sky. We had emerged shivering from our rooms that mid-October morning in our tiny lodge in Lungden,…

Off the beaten track in the Khumbu of Nepal: Lobuche to Gokyo via Cho La

Off the beaten track in the Khumbu of Nepal:  Lobuche to Gokyo via Cho La
In a place where superlatives ring hollow for overuse, Gokyo finds a way to make an impression. Out the back door of our well-kept lodge in the lakeside town of Gokyo in the northern Khumbu of Nepal, groups of brightly dressed porters stood talking around their cooking fires, smoke curling upward with its now familiar sweet-bitter yak dung fragrance.     The…

A Gift of Glory – Sunrise over Cerro Torre, Patagonia

A Gift of Glory – Sunrise over Cerro Torre, Patagonia
The firefly glow of our headlamps mapped out the winding trail through trees and boulders to the moraine, the ghostly spire of Cerro Torre just peeking over the top.   Cresting the ridge, across our field of view was luminescent ice, vertical rock and water: Laguna Torre and behind it a row of high sheer pinnacles rising above a sweep of…

A Rich Feast on the Alpamayo Northern Circuit, Cordillera Blanca, Peru

A Rich Feast on the Alpamayo Northern Circuit, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
….superlatives crash and burn in a brave attempt to capture the beauty of the place.” Lonely Planet Trekking in Peru Snapping awake sometime before dawn, I extracted myself from sleeping bag and tent as quietly as possible so as not to awaken my tentmate.  Snuggling in down parka,  alpaca cap and mittens, I found a perch on a rock in…

Ancient and Modern Drama, Writ Large on Cerro Torre, Patagonia

Ancient and Modern Drama, Writ Large on Cerro Torre, Patagonia
We stood utterly alone in a moonscape of tumbled gray rocks left behind by the last Patagonian glaciation, the view of the full Chalten massif stretched before us – the best view in the house.   Filling our field of view were the striking pinnacles of Cerro Torre (3102m) with its ever-present cap of rime ice[1], and its companions Torre Egger (2900m) and Cerro Standhardt (2800m).  …