Nepal

Off the beaten track in the Khumbu of Nepal: Gokyo to Thame over Renjo La

It was one of those magical, sparkling mornings when the light painted every rock, lichen, yak and peak in surreally vivid relief.  A flock of birds burst upward from an adjoining field like a scatter of buckshot against the blue-violet of the morning sky. We had emerged shivering from our rooms that mid-October morning in […]

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Off the beaten track in the Khumbu of Nepal: Lobuche to Gokyo via Cho La

In a place where superlatives ring hollow for overuse, Gokyo finds a way to make an impression. Out the back door of our well-kept lodge in the lakeside town of Gokyo in the northern Khumbu of Nepal, groups of brightly dressed porters stood talking around their cooking fires, smoke curling upward with its now familiar […]

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Afternoon in Bhaktapur

Afternoon in Bhaktapur

The ambiance of the ancient Newari trading center of Bhaktapur in the Kathmandu Valley of Nepal creeps up on you slowly, like the satisfaction of a rich, unfamiliar yet luscious multi-course meal eaten with the fingers. The Newars were the original residents of the Kathmandu Valley and the majority ethnic group until the Gorkha conquest of the valley […]

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