Happy Tramper

A Gift of Glory – Sunrise over Cerro Torre, Patagonia

A Gift of Glory – Sunrise over Cerro Torre, Patagonia
The firefly glow of our headlamps mapped out the winding trail through trees and boulders to the moraine, the ghostly spire of Cerro Torre just peeking over the top.   Cresting the ridge, across our field of view was luminescent ice, vertical rock and water: Laguna Torre and behind it a row of high sheer pinnacles rising above a sweep of…

Walking the Ice Fields of Patagonia

Walking the Ice Fields of Patagonia
The notorious Patagonian weather had been following us uphill for most of the day as we made our approach to the ‘crux’ of the Torres del Paine Circuit trek in Chilean Patagonia: John Gardner pass at 4660’ elevation.  I know, less than 5000 feet, shouldn’t be much of a big deal – but at 51 degrees south latitude and almost…

Ancient and Modern Drama, Writ Large on Cerro Torre, Patagonia

Ancient and Modern Drama, Writ Large on Cerro Torre, Patagonia
We stood utterly alone in a moonscape of tumbled gray rocks left behind by the last Patagonian glaciation, the view of the full Chalten massif stretched before us – the best view in the house.   Filling our field of view were the striking pinnacles of Cerro Torre (3102m) with its ever-present cap of rime ice[1], and its companions Torre Egger (2900m) and Cerro Standhardt (2800m).  …
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