Happy Tramper

The Primal Race Between Sockeye and Brown Bear at Brooks Falls, Katmai, Alaska

The Primal Race Between Sockeye and Brown Bear at Brooks Falls, Katmai, Alaska
I was one of those kids who couldn’t get enough of Mutual of Omaha’s ‘Wild Kingdom’ and the voyages of Jacques Cousteau. Nature’s splendid diversity and mystery was captivating, though sometimes the violence of it made me hide behind the sofa (“Nooooo, not the baby elephant…..!!!”) I found myself feeling the same combination of wonder, fascination and horror more than…

Afternoon in Bhaktapur

Afternoon in Bhaktapur
The ambiance of the ancient Newari trading center of Bhaktapur in the Kathmandu Valley of Nepal creeps up on you slowly, like the satisfaction of a rich, unfamiliar yet luscious multi-course meal eaten with the fingers. The Newars were the original residents of the Kathmandu Valley and the majority ethnic group until the Gorkha conquest of the valley in 1769. Bhaktapur, a center…

Ancient and Modern Drama, Writ Large on Cerro Torre, Patagonia

Ancient and Modern Drama, Writ Large on Cerro Torre, Patagonia
We stood utterly alone in a moonscape of tumbled gray rocks left behind by the last Patagonian glaciation, the view of the full Chalten massif stretched before us – the best view in the house.   Filling our field of view were the striking pinnacles of Cerro Torre (3102m) with its ever-present cap of rime ice[1], and its companions Torre Egger (2900m) and Cerro Standhardt (2800m).  …
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