Happy Tramper

Ancient and Modern Drama, Writ Large on Cerro Torre, Patagonia

Ancient and Modern Drama, Writ Large on Cerro Torre, Patagonia
We stood utterly alone in a moonscape of tumbled gray rocks left behind by the last Patagonian glaciation, the view of the full Chalten massif stretched before us – the best view in the house.   Filling our field of view were the striking pinnacles of Cerro Torre (3102m) with its ever-present cap of rime ice[1], and its companions Torre Egger (2900m) and Cerro Standhardt (2800m).  …

Sunrise on the Smoking Mountain: Monte FitzRoy, Argentine Patagonia

Sunrise on the Smoking Mountain:  Monte FitzRoy, Argentine Patagonia
The firefly sparks of a dozen headlamps sketched out the trail above our camp, with only the faintest pre-dawn glow to indicate the presence of the towering massif above. Climbers and trekkers had been hunkered down through the rain and wind for a month in the little boomtown of El Chalten, Argentina, awaiting this first clear stretch of weather, and…